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Old 09-27-2013, 12:25 AM
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Question Will this work? Opinion's welcome.

Do you think this will work? Or do you think it will snap?

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Old 09-27-2013, 12:37 AM
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Think it would flex in the gearbox, get off track, and lock up your gearbox.
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Old 09-27-2013, 12:59 AM
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Yeah, it'll flex, to what degree, can't say for sure, but it will. It probably won't snap, but as Texx said, it'll still cause problems. Now if it still had at least a bit of support at that top it probably wouldn't, but since it doesn't your best bet would be to test it in a spare gearbox if you have one.
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Old 09-27-2013, 04:29 AM
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So prob best bet is 3 holes on top and 2 on the side?
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Old 09-27-2013, 06:30 AM
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In all honesty, it already looks bent. If you want to make you piston lighter, I would say do this a LOT shallower. It's pretty deep in the piston.
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Old 09-27-2013, 06:54 AM
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ok...This is just a trial, other one I have has three holes on top and holes on the side ..I'll post a pic later. The reason for this is the piston is not returning fast enough and my sector gear is skimming the teeth ..so I need to make the piston lighter so it will return faster.
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:08 AM
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How is this one?




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Old 09-27-2013, 09:19 AM
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You could probably drill a few more holes with a smaller drill bit, but it wouldn't make much of a difference really.

I'd say your fine as it is right now. If you haven't already, try throwing it in your gearbox and see if that resolves your problem.
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Old 09-27-2013, 10:50 PM
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maybe your drag is coming from the piston's fit on the piston rails as opposed to the weight of the piston itself. You might try smoothing the rails on the piston and the box. I've had boxes where the rail was not properly formed on the gearbox shell and required filing.
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:21 PM
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Reducing piston weight is similar to pinching pennies.

Both designs may work in a non windowed gearbox (the ones where you can't see the spring guide).
The biggest deal I see happening is odd spring binding which would vary your shot to shot consistency bigtime.

Texx is the pro, but I'm just reflecting on 8 years of trying to improve an already ok design. Reducing piston weight was another waste of money

If you're trying to achieve a super rof. You may want to dremel a tooth or two off the piston and sector.
Each tooth cuts about 20fps.

From your experiment I would like to ask a question though. Everytime I lightened or had a light piston the crashing forward of the drive was always significantly louder than heaver piston setups.
Is this the same for you?

Good luck on the build.
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:59 PM
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Ok here's the deal...I run 16:1 gears SHS High speed motor, 11.1v 1600 15c and 11.1v 15-25c burst. Now on the 15c I run flawles but on the 25c burst that's where on the full auto i hear the drag or grind of a tooth and it skipps bbs. So with that said ..the 25c burst is too fast and the 15 c is just right. on a 15c battery believe it or not I run 30rps and never skip a beat!! So my thought is I'm gonna lighten the piston and put 18:1 gears and see how it does on the 25c.
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Old 09-29-2013, 12:45 AM
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FYI: You can easily achieve 30rps with 18:1's. For people wanting to run high speed builds in excess of 30bps it is COMPLETELY necessary to either shortstroke, swisscheese the piston, or both. You are lightening the piston so that it has less change in inertia and thus the spring can reach its resting point much quicker. You do this to prevent pre-engagement. Guns running in the upper 300's can typically achieve 30bps without needing to shortstroke or swisscheese however; depending on which parts you choose. The lonex red would be considered a heavy piston though. When you have a piston that weights 8-9 ounces stock, reducing it to 5-6 is by no means pinching pennies. I've built plenty of speedguns to know this.

While I have no experience with your first design to say whether or not it would work, I wouldn't use it. Remember the sector gear is interacting with the piston rack in two components, one pushing the piston back, and the other pushing it upwards due to the direction the sector spins (upwards when first engaging the piston). Since there is no backbrace, the piston would tend to warp.

You can check to see if the rails are not a solid fit for the piston, but in MOST cases this is not an issue. You can test by easily clamping the box together with nothing in it but the piston and piston head, then flopping it back and forth to see if the piston glides free. Many get caught at the very pack of the gearbox: remember with a spring installed they *never get that far.*
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Last edited by Spectre; 09-29-2013 at 12:58 AM.
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