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Old 02-15-2013, 12:12 PM
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Lipo 11.1v in Ak-74u

Hi
I recently bought a DBoys RK-01 Steel (Ak-74u), along with it I purchased a 7.4v Lipo battery and a 11.1v Lipo battery. I know the 7.4 is close to a 9.6v and that will be fine. But I know there are very few guns that come Lipo ready like my KWA M4 and M16, especially a gun so cheap like this, I was just wondering what anyone could recommend doing to the gun to make it 11.1v Lipo ready. P.S. Im not trying to sped a ton of money, im going to buy a Polarstar when they come back in stock and need to keep as much money as I can for it
Thanks
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:17 PM
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Install a mosfet and you will be fine. You can actually make your own if you are good with electronics for around 5-10 dollars. You can buy ones ready built for around 20-30. These are just the plain jane mosfet, more options equals more money.
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:41 PM
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A mosfet will prevent your trigger contacts from arcing and will decrease corrosion. I've noticed that all of my lipos (7.4 AND 11.1) all do some sort of arcing across my trigger contacts. Low resistance wire might help too. And some deans. The Tamiya ones like to heat up.
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:41 PM
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Install a FET. My Dboys AKSU caught on fire using an 11.1.
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:52 PM
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Technically all AEG's are LiPo ready, but with 11.1V, it's more the voltage that kills a gun that whether or not it's a LiPo or not.

As voltage increases, the RPM of the motor will also increase as well. The biggest problem I see with 11.1V LiPo's is that there are a LOT of lower end AEG's that just aren't built to handle such a high rate of fire.

The best advice I can give you is that if you absolutely MUST put an 11.1V Lipo in your gun, use good BB's and keep your barrel clean. A single BB jam in full auto can be catastrophic. There are some other things you can do internally to the gearbox, such as polishing the piston grooves to reduce friction, as well as making sure the gearbox is properly shimmed. Using a higher voltage battery isn't for everyone though, so be prepared to have money in hand in case you need to buy parts for repairs. If you're not doing repairs yourself, then I wouldn't recommend going to an 11.1V. The 7.4V Lipo should be fine though.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:01 PM
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^This.

Think of it like this, your gun can fire 50,000 BBs before it breaks. On a 9.6 you fire 15 BBs a sec. On an 11.1 you fire at 30 BBs a sec, therefore you get to that 50k faster.

(THAT WAS JUST A HYPOTHETICAL EXAMPLE).

The other benifit of a mosfet is that you system is more efficient and your trigger response will increase.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkstar View Post
Technically all AEG's are LiPo ready, but with 11.1V, it's more the voltage that kills a gun that whether or not it's a LiPo or not.

As voltage increases, the RPM of the motor will also increase as well. The biggest problem I see with 11.1V LiPo's is that there are a LOT of lower end AEG's that just aren't built to handle such a high rate of fire.

The best advice I can give you is that if you absolutely MUST put an 11.1V Lipo in your gun, use good BB's and keep your barrel clean. A single BB jam in full auto can be catastrophic. There are some other things you can do internally to the gearbox, such as polishing the piston grooves to reduce friction, as well as making sure the gearbox is properly shimmed. Using a higher voltage battery isn't for everyone though, so be prepared to have money in hand in case you need to buy parts for repairs. If you're not doing repairs yourself, then I wouldn't recommend going to an 11.1V. The 7.4V Lipo should be fine though.

LINKAGE:
http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/MOSFETS-t196370.html

Just remember that you forgot about the arcing of contacts with a higher voltage corrodes. Although they happen with all voltages, the higher voltage does more damage when the contacts arc. I would put a FET in any gun I had if I could afford it, but the general consensus is over the 9.6v/7.4v medium dump rate battery.

Also...a MOSFET is considered to "save trigger contacts" through the use of its circuit system. It is designed to "sense" when a complete circuit is made...or when you pull the trigger... and start the power to the motor.

That's all I'm worried about, and thought that should be mentioned.

Thank you for the mention of internal wear. I normally have no care for this as an experienced tech.
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