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Old 08-12-2012, 09:45 PM
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Arrow Ares LMG MG-006 Write-up

Before I begin, allow me to state the following:
  • When I first started this post (8/12/2012), I'd used the gun in combat twice and put about of 10,000 rounds through it. In my opinion, two games and 10,000 rounds is far too short a time to make and publicize an opinion on the reliability of this gun. As of 7/2/2013 I've used it at many more games and not had a single in-game failure.
  • There are plenty of other reviews about the design and features of the weapon. I include some links (below) simply to assist the reader in completing their research:
  • ARES LMG review by CRW-airsoft.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDNuxioGruE
  • Hobbyeshop review: ARES Stoner LMG AEG http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iye4yWIadaE
  • Ares Stoner LMG Review by Airsoft Report http://www.airsoftreport.com/ares-stoner-lmg-review
  • I have tried (but not entirely succeeded) to keep my opinions out of this write-up; so if you are reading a bullet point and it sounds like Iíve not presented you with a conclusion, Iím hoping you will make up your own mind.

Observations:
-The Gun-
  1. The look and feel is fantastic.
  2. The trigger pull is clean and engages at the end of its travel.
  3. No wobble from the joint where the stock attaches to the upper.
  4. The portion of the stock that is adjustable wiggles and makes noise when you shake it. The diameter of the adjustable portion could stand to be slightly bigger in diameter to reduce the wobble.
  5. The barrel quick detach feature is well designed and operates cleanly.
  6. It is actually easier to go "Barrel Out" rather than "Mag Out" at the end of a game.
  7. Once BB's have been fed all the way up to the breech, it becomes very difficult to remove the magazine without first removing power from the box magazine, rotating the gun along its barrel axis so the magazine is above the gun (the gun is almost upside down) and then firing off a few rounds. After firing off a few rounds, space has been introduced into the BB's feeder tube and now the magazine will slide off the bottom of the gun. If you don't do this, BBs will not be able to shift in the feeder tube and will act as a lock or obstruction to the tube being sliced in half when you slide off the box mag.
  8. The box magazines are easy to disassemble and reassemble.
  9. The gearbox was well lubed and shimmed.
  10. This is a support weapon, but the gun provides you a space large enough to hold an 8.4V 7-cell 2/3A cell size stick battery. Common capacities of NiMh stick batteries are 1200mAh to 1600mAh. Other battery chemistries like LiPo, LiMn, and LiFePo4 do not offer capacities exceeding 1600mAh in this stick configuration.
  11. The two hinged top covers (gray + black) like to stick together and operate as a pair. This makes it difficult when in a hurry to swap magazines. First you have to pull up on the black outer cover, then while holding the black, pull apart the gray. Once the gray cover is laid down against the upper, you can feed in the fake belt of bullets.
  12. 18 AWG wire is used for the motor and battery wiring.
  13. The box magazine and power wiring for the box magazine uses 22 AWG.
  14. The box magazine power wire uses a JST XH 2.5mm style connector. Genuine JST XH connectors are rated for 3A AC & DC and resistance varies between .01 Ohm and .02 Ohm per contact. http://www.jst-belgium.be/downloads/series/eXH_1.pdf. I would like to compare the contact resistance of JST XH 2.5mm plugs against the well known WS Deans Micro Plug, but Deans does not publish such information. A request has been sent to info@WSDeans.com. As of the time this write-up was published, Deans has not responded (2012/08/12).
  15. The battery connector is a mini-Tamiya. Tamiya connectors have a reputation for being less reliable than genuine WS Deans Ultra connectors or EC3 connectors. Experienced airsoft players, radio control car, truck, boat, plane, and helicopter enthusiasts all switch away from Tamiya style connectors for the same reasons: reliability, current capability, and the need for low DC resistance.
  16. The balance point of the gun with no battery, no magazine, no grip, and no rail covers is about where the magazine sits. Add the magazine, battery, rounds, rail covers, and grip, and the balance point is shifted towards the muzzle. If you are used to holding an M4 style weapon, this may be too front heavy for you. If you are used to holding an M240, M60, or M249, then you might not notice.
  17. ALL current to run the gearbox motor and the box magazine motor must go through the micro switch. Read the next bullet point for the whole story.
  18. The trigger uses a micro-switch. Inexpensive micro-switches, like the one found in this gun, are not rated for high DC amperes like this gun will experience. Over time this switch will corrode and cease to function. Without having BBs in the hopper the box magazine motor pulls 0.6A to 0.7A of current at startup and 0.2A to 0.3A of current once running from an 8.4V 5000mAh battery. Many of the micro switches Iíve found available for sale through the Internet are rated for 5 to 20 Amps @ 250V AC, but less than one amp when passing DC. The trigger switch in this LMG is no exception. It is rated for 2/3rd Amp @ 125VDC and 1/3rd Amp @ 250VDC. If the micro switchís DC capacity does not increase inversely as we drop the voltage, then I would encourage you to conclude that this micro switch is rated to power the box magazine motor only and to run the gearbox motorís current through it would prematurely shorten its life.
  19. The gearbox makes liberal usage of tooth/star countersunk lock washers. Each screw in the gearbox has one. The piston head uses one too.
  20. Several of the lock washers were broken when I removed the screws. Should the lock washers be replaced with fresh ones every time you reassemble the gearbox? During regular maintenance, will the lock washers eat away at the gearbox metal? Image of a Tooth/Star Countersunk Lock washer: http://dmpfasteners.com/shop/images/...otos%20037.JPG Details about Tooth/Star Countersunk Lock washers: http://www.designnotes.com/companion/manual-2.html Tooth lock washers (Figure 15) are used with screws and nuts for some spring action but mostly for locking action. The teeth are formed in a twisted configuration with sharp edges. One edge bites into the bolt head (or nut) while the other edge bites into the mating surface. Although this washer does provide some locking action, it damages the mating surfaces. These scratches can cause crack formation in highly stressed fasteners, in mating parts, or both, as well as decreased corrosion resistance.
  21. The quick-change spring feature requires that you carry a flathead screwdriver and a long-necked Allen key. The spring guide sits on the inside of the gearbox and a short, wide, and flat screw screws into the back of the spring guide and when tightened down, effectively stabilizes the spring guide inside the gearbox. The Allen key should have a hefty handle on it or you will struggle to remove and reinsert the spring guide against the tension of the spring. Once the spring guide is inserted, only a quarter turn (90 degrees) is needed to rotate the arms on the spring guide so it does not pop out; but if you use a short Allen key that you cannot firmly grasp then the spring guide will wiggle from side to side making that insertion and quarter turn awkward and time consuming.
  22. The motor and motor mount portion of the gearbox was covered in a clear shrink wrap. Why? Shrink wrap retains heat. To properly perform maintenance on this gearbox, should the technician have a supply of shrink wrap available?
  23. Without the shrink wrap around the motor and motor mount, the motor can rotate 15-20 degrees in its mount. The gearbox does not pinch the sides of the motor. The gearbox does not stabilize the motor from rotational movement. The gearbox motor mount does stabilize the motor against yaw and pitch; just not roll along the axis of the axle.
  24. If your goal is to keep this gearbox stock, then the motor must be unsoldered on at least one power terminal to remove it from the gearbox. And re-soldered after you are done servicing the gearbox. Every time. No ifs, ands, or buts.

-The Box Magazines-
  1. I purchased two additional box magazines and both had continuity issues located at the exact same spot: 5mm south of the box magazine's power plug. This point in the wire is under constant stress (hard-angle bending) because of how the black plate and gray plate hold the ammo belt. The solder joint on the box magazineís power plug did not break. What did break is this: each individual copper strand that composed the 22 gauge wire at this hard-angle bending stress point which is just beneath the solder joint of the power plug. One magazine saw half a day of play time while the second broke after a single full day of play. I've had to repair both box magazines and used this as an opportunity to swap out the 22 AWG wire for 18 AWG wire and used WS Deans Micro Plug polarized connectors (part number 1222) instead of the JST XH connectors.
  2. Since I encountered similar problems with two of the three box magazines, I decided to perform some pre-emptive investigative work on the third box magazine. While disassembling the third box mag, I removed the motor assembly. At the slightest touch, the black power wire snapped off right near the motorís negative solder joint. No unsoldering was needed. The solder joint was solid; the problem was again that the 22 gauge wire was not thick enough to stand up to mild usage.
  3. The internal structure of the box magazine is made of a brittle plastic and cracks / splits easily. The plastic cracked in the same place on all three box magazines: The point where the flexible coiled wire tube meets the clear plastic collar. This point is under stress because the collar has a set screw in it to ensure that the coiled wire tube does not escape. I've had to repair the plastic using superglue. I could not find any markings on the box magazines that identified their version as V1 or V2. I believe all three box magazines are version 2 because the common characteristic of V1 box magazines was the high rate of miss-feeds and the difficulty of reassembly. None of my three box magazines have miss-fed and they are easy to reassemble, so I am concluding they are V2.


This rifle is modeled after a support weapon. Support weapons are supposed to be built for reliability and dependability. Support weapons are built to withstand the stress of sustained fire. Based upon the report of my observations of the Ares LMG MG-006, would you categorize this weapon (in its as-shipped, stock form) as a support weapon? Is the design easy to service and sustainable? Would you conclude that it is worth the commonly available price of $550 USD? Would you conclude that each box magazine is worth the commonly available price of $100 USD?

Some of you have seen this weapon at the Springfield location during Operation Last Hope (147) on 08/11/2012. A few of you asked about "the strange plastic box" at the back of the gun. That was part of the upgrades I performed. I hope to have a write up on the upgrades soon, but I need to perform more experiments before I'm ready to release any recommendations.

2012/12/03 - Additional content

-What's that plastic thing?-
I was unhappy with the stock battery configuration so I added a custom battery box. Is it pretty? No. But it's effective. It houses a 7.4v 5000mAh LiPo, a 40 amp automotive relay, and a gearbox motor disable switch. The relay was used because I didn't have a mosfet available for this project. The gearbox disable switch allows or denys current from activating the relay when I pull the trigger. Current is always delivered to the box bag when pulling the trigger, regardless of the other switch's position. This lets me insert a new box mag and prime the feeding tube without firing 30 blanks.

The black Velcro patches you see on the side of the box are there so I can attach a small electric thermometer. The thermometer has a sensor on the end of 8" of wire. I feed the sensor through the stock and tape it to the gearbox motor.

(click 4 zoom)










-The Repair-
While at the inagural game at Calamityville, I tripped and fell on the gun. The majority of my body weight (with equipment 240+ pounds) pressed down on the middle of the gun, breaking it in half. The part that broke was part of the stock mating mechanism that allows an operator to access and swap out the compression spring without disassembling the gun. If you inspect the pictures closely, you will see jagged edges where the break occurred. This part is constructed of cheap pot metal.

I approached ZShot, the US distributor of Ares, and Ares themselves for replacement parts. ZShot wouldn't ship me just the broken part. They said the stock ships as a whole unit and would cost $85, plus shipping. Ares customer service would ship me just the broken part for $12 + shipping. I bought 2 pieces of the broken part so I'd have a spare should it break again. Shipping was cheap but took a couple weeks to arrive from overseas.

Removal of the broken part was difficult since glue had been applied to the threads. I'm really glad I ordered two of the replacement parts because one did not fit!!! You will see a picture of how the ill-fitting part would not completely mate with the back end of the gun. Should I ever need to replace the part again, I will have to sand down the ill-fitting part until it does fit.

(click 4 zoom)




- Great Disassembly Photos -
AirSoft Community (ASC) has some fantastic disassembly photos. Their review is relatively recent and is worth mention. Link.


2013/04/13 - Additional content

I gave the gun a complete overhaul: new motor, two mosfets, and a momentary switch for the priming of the box magazine. Here's a rough schematic of the new wiring. Click the image for a larger picture.



Here's the finished product. (click 4 zoom)



I used two of Jonezy's mosfets. One powers the motor and replaced that 40 Amp automotive relay I was using. The second mosfet powers the box magazine. Overkill? Yes, but necessary. I used to have a DPDT toggle switch on the battery box. I replaced that with a C&K 8225 DPDT Momentary Switch. It is small enough to be mounted on the bottom of the gun, between the box magazine and the trigger. The switch is really nice quality, but is rated for a max of 0.4 VA. The box mag's start-up current is more than that and the continuous current is between 0.3 A and 0.4 A. This is why the second mosfet is necessary.

(click 4 zoom)


When pressed, this little button disables the trigger and energizes the Box Mag, feeding BBs up the tube without dry-firing the gun for 40 rounds.




The Box Mag mosfet is located at the lower right.
It has a green wire coming out of it.



The last mod was to install an Element High-Torque motor. The stock motor after one year of moderate use (15K - 20K rounds guesstimate) decided to give up. I'll keep it around so I can learn how to properly clean electric motors, commutators, and brushes. Compared to the old motor, the new one is fantastic. I really wanted a Lonex A2 Short High-Torque, but 321 Airsoft was out of stock. Popular motors.

The mosfet is sitting just atop the motor cage.


When installing the motor, I attempted to use the motor height adjustment screw that is located at the back of the gearbox. I backed out the screw a bit to back out the motor slightly which in turn made a better alignment between the pinion gear and bevel gear. I found that I had to undo the adjustment and put the motor height adjustment screw back to the factory setting because the screw was bumping into the plate that holds on the stock. Scroll up and you'll see a picture of three of these plates.


2015/12/15 - Additional content

Over the past 18 months I have upgraded a few more parts:
  • Lonex Airsoft Titan A1 Motor
  • Lonex Enhanced Helical Gear Set
  • Lonex Airsoft Extreme Toughness RED Piston W/ Ten Steel Teeth
  • Lee's Precision Engineering Airsoft V2/V3 CNC Machined Aluminium Airbrake Piston Head

With the addition of the airbrake piston head, the sound signature changed from a thwack to more of a bright thump, but nothing disguises the very distinctive (and very loud) whine while firing. The Lonex parts are fantastic and nothing has failed. All I do is keep up with the maintenance of lubrication and barrel cleaning and the gun keeps chugging. In retrospect, I'm not sure that the helical gears were a good choice; because they are a high torque ratio, the gun gets 13 RPS @ 7.4V, which is a little slow for a rifle, but works out pretty well as a support weapon. I've not tried feeding it an 11.1V battery.

Last edited by The_Gecko; 12-15-2015 at 10:28 PM. Reason: Rearranged some bullet-points for grouping of topics. Added new content.
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Old 08-12-2012, 10:24 PM
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Excellent write up. Very informative.

I am not a big fan of their design as a support weapon (poor battery size, box mag size), nor would I dig the idea of working on one. I do not own one for those two reasons.
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Old 08-12-2012, 10:28 PM
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That battery space issue is what turns me off the most about this gun. I've only been on the receiving end of yours, but that strikes me as a problem for sustaining fire over long periods.

On another note, this was a very well done write-up! I'll be waiting on an explanation for that fancy relay box on your stock
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Old 08-12-2012, 10:28 PM
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Not a fan of ARES but you do make it sound pretty great. Box mags are my biggest issue with support guns and you seem to have a winner there. But that big price tag is what gets me.

In all, a great review! I've done a few reviews and they always help people, even if there are no comments or thanks. Someone somewhere has googled and will find this review.
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Old 08-17-2012, 05:29 PM
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After getting to hold this gun at OP: Last Hope I can tell you it puts the "light" in LMG. The addition of the battery box under the stock helps to make this gun as close to a 50/50 on weight distribution. Kudos Ghecko!

I can see the advantages of a light support weapon such as the Stoner. As a support gunner I have played around with several models and I currently have a CA m249 mk ii and an A&K m60 mk 43 mod 0. They are both all metal and heavy. I have to say the performance is there but I pay for it in weight.

Excellent review and I am looking forward to hearing about it's reliability down the road!
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:51 PM
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Bump. Additional content. Good stuff.
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:47 AM
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Bump. Additional content.
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:02 PM
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Seems like you could get most of your battery and electronics into one of the older style PEQ battery boxes. Maybe switching to a different battery configuration. Any plans to move to a different battery box?
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:12 PM
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I have no plans to move to a different battery configuration. I really like the weight distribution with the battery at the back. If someone sold a full-size solid stock with room to hold the battery internally, I'd buy it.
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:38 PM
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So should the stock/reciever end cap be considered a weak point or was this just a freak accident?

Do you think repeated stress in this area would cause another break?
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Old 04-13-2013, 03:19 PM
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I believe the "stock/receiver end cap" thingy (there really isn't a good name for it) is the weakest part of the gun. Falling on the gun was a freak accident, but some good came out of it: I now know to keep a couple spares in case of other accidents. I have not seen any play, wiggle, stress fractures, or any other sort of wear-and-tear on this end cap as a result of using it in the field.
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Old 04-13-2013, 03:36 PM
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What is the "end cap" made of?
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:38 PM
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Some sort of granular pot metal.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:45 PM
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Do you have a multimeter to just measure the resistance of the Deans connections?
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:04 PM
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I do have a multimeter with a resistance function, but I have never been comfortable relying on a DMM to accurately measure the resistances of items under 1 ohm.
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:09 AM
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Added pictures.
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Old 04-01-2014, 11:21 AM
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I've had a conversation going with Ares through their Facebook page. Here is an excerpt:

Quote:
I have uncovered (what I consider IMHO) to be the largest flaw in the whole design: The quick detach part 'A1' is constructed from an inferior material. While preparing for a game in 40F/4.4C degree weather the gun fell off a chair and landed on the ground and part A1 shattered on impact. Total distance of the fall was two feet (61cm). This is the second time part A1 broke on me. The first time was in much warmer weather; I tripped during a game and landed on the rifle. If you visit the Airsoft Ohio link (above) and scroll down, you will see pictures of the first time part A1 broke.

Breaking a rifle as a result of a short drop is not something that I would ever worry about with any of my KWA rifles, but now I feel that I must "baby" my LMG, else it might break during a game. A much better material to use for the construction of A1 would be a piece of CNC'd aluminum. <Truncated_For_Space>. I know that the quick detach feature was promoted heavily, and I'm sure that a lot of people enjoy the ability to swap springs in a couple of minutes while on the field, but the choice to use cheap materials has us, your customers, paying for your mistakes. Typing this makes me feel bad, especially after what I wrote in the first paragraph.

Exploded Parts Diagram:http://www.aresairsoft.com/for%20web...xpose_plan.jpg .
Here is the most recent part of the conversation:

Quote:
March 17 at 12:30pm
The Gecko
It is close to Q2/2014. Has the upgraded part been released?

April 1st at 5:17 AM
Crystal (Ares Customer Service)
Its on the final moulding and testing, it will possible have the upgrade version soon.
We will keep you inform once it becomes available.
Awesome.
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