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  #76  
Old 06-01-2006, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CaPtAiN_InSaNo
That depends on how much room you have, give me a picture of the battery compartment or a link where i can see it, i might be able to dig something up. I think the G36c uses a smaller type 4/5c cells or AA sized. You could use the smaller AA sized packs and use like 10 cells for 15 v of power, promatch racing has GP 2300 MAH Nitro Car reciever batterys that would work well.
There are custom made batteries that require a bit of modification of the foregrip compartment for the mini-battery packs. However, you can also purchase larger foregrips that accomodate large battery packs.

The battery compartment 'stock' is very tight. While lengthwise there is a tiny bit of play, I've noticed that the rubber sleeve that holds the batteries together has been torn off at certain points from sliding the foregrip back on.

There are slightly higher MAH mini-batteries you can purchase that will extend battery time for a stock G36C, above the 'default' mini-battery packs.

Personally, my setup is a bit unique.

I cut the wire from the gun at the end of the fuse and routed it to a small bank of capacitors (which are stored in the foregrip) and routed the wire out the gun to the stock. The open area in the stock can actually fit two mini battery packs side by side and can be held in with whatever you want.

I do not know what type of batteries come with each of the mini-battery packs, but if insano would like, I'll look into it when I get home.
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  #77  
Old 06-03-2006, 07:33 AM
CaPtAiN_InSaNo CaPtAiN_InSaNo is offline
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It all comes down to power. that's the biggest problem with guns like the G36 or AKS series assault rifles because there just isn't a whole lot of room of extra power. Current technology is somewhat limited in minaturization of cells. Sounds like elm has a good idea. However the only problem with capacitors is that while if you have several of them your going to "dump" your power at a certain time, that time is not guaranteed to be when you need it. There reall is no way to completely control when the caps dump their power unless you had a digitally controlled power regulator that controls or cutts off current flow tot he caps so they don't reach full charge and dump power until you need it. The simplest method is having higher capacity cells at about 8.4~9.6, a 7 or 8 cell pack. Now AA sized cells have one BIG problme, IR. Even though you can get them in up to 2300~2500 mah capacities, which is not bad for a small cells, their higher IR prevents them from handling high currents. Now AEG's draw about 12~20 amps max even with hotter armatures that are used on CA or ICS guns. So that's not a whole lot. You could concievable mount cells in different places in the gun. I have seen teh stock mod where they were able to fit 4 4/5 sub c cells in the stock, and another 7 cell pack in the front. But i don't know where to get high quality 4/5 sub c cells at. I think you might be stuck with the crappy 600~1800 mah range, which gives you little run time and poor performance compared to something like 8 cell 4200 mah Intellect cells which can take over 45 amp draw. You could use a battery bag, or even better but more expensive LARGE PEQ's, they hold up to 9 cell large packs. Yah their big and heavy, but it looks fairly realistic and conceals the battery in a device that would be mounted on a real gun.
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  #78  
Old 08-02-2006, 02:58 AM
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So I'm not alone...-I just couldn't accept having only 1100Mah available.

You can use up to 10 (12v!!!) standard RC cells in common stick pack formations in a holder resembling a grenade launcher
Now to go shopping for a c-mag....

Last edited by Killbucket; 03-19-2007 at 02:15 AM.
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  #79  
Old 08-02-2006, 03:02 AM
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no more bitty batts

a pic...

Last edited by Killbucket; 03-19-2007 at 02:13 AM.
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  #80  
Old 08-02-2006, 01:19 PM
CaPtAiN_InSaNo CaPtAiN_InSaNo is offline
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That's a creative way to store the battery pack, glad more people are thinking outside the conventional ways. Now you can see what i've been trying to tell people for the past 3 years, battery power makes the big difference in whether or not you can put in a heavier spring and still have a good rof. My slr, which i used at BF3 was mistaken for a CA M249 saw several times cause the ROF is very high, but i also have a SP120 spring pushing 403 fps. So its alot to do with the battery, motor as well, the most common problem is battery power. CA, ICS, and eagle force motors are pretty decent, mostly mild modifides, so they can crank out the torque without loosing RPM. TM EG1000's seem to be more mild, as they tend to loose ROF more with heavier springs, at least in comparison to my CA motor.

My reccomended cells are Intellect 3600-4200 Mah NiMH or GP 3300's(cheaper, but still good). www.towerhobbies.com is a great place for that kinda stuff, its cheap, and has a pretty large selection.
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  #81  
Old 08-02-2006, 03:18 PM
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Make that 165000uf, 25volt nichicons.

All math aside, when the spring is compressing, amp draw goes up. when it releases, amps decrease. The caps are to prevent "voltage sag" during wind-up. If the gun pulls about 15-20 amps, and the batteries are good for 35, theoretically there should be no benefit to having the caps. In use however, the caps keep ROF steady much longer. Back-to-back testing with a toggle switch confirms this. Single fire is a nice crisp crack each time. I would assume NiMh batts would be happier set up this way compared to NiCds.

Now has anybody out there experimented with a "dual-voltage" setup to have more than one auto fire rate? Hmmm... It would be nice to kick in 12v like a nitro button and have 1000RPM on tap in a "stock" gun!

This is the best battery deal I have ever seen: it's what is in my Marui...$24.99 (plus shipping) for a 3500Mah 9.6v NiMh.

http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=539
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  #82  
Old 08-14-2006, 11:44 PM
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They just got this in.
Made to hold standard rc packs (even hump packs!), it will hold up to 12 sub-c cells. That's 14.4 volts! I just lost my only reason to not own a G36. They say it will fit both long and short versions.
I know what you mean by ROF. Once you make a gun go faster, there isn't any going back...I haven't done any upgrades yet, but chances are I'll never go to a heavier spring (ok, maybe one step up) because I'm just plinking in my back yard. But the prospect of insane ROF will get this gun opened one day soon. I'm thinking uber-strong gears and motor, but still have some research to do here first.
Any other newbs reading would be well advised to skip Nickel-Cadmium Batteries. They are fast disappearing from shelves in favor of NiMh's...The NiCd's left must be getting to the end of shelf life expectancy. Considering the slim margin in cost, buy the NiMh's, they are much noticably stronger.

Last edited by Killbucket; 03-19-2007 at 02:14 AM.
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  #83  
Old 01-09-2007, 09:10 PM
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Can a 9.6v battery be used in a Classic Army Armalite M15 A4 Carbine AEG?
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  #84  
Old 01-09-2007, 10:22 PM
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Yes, all 9.6 volt batterys can be used in Classic Army M15's.
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  #85  
Old 01-18-2007, 04:50 PM
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What about the Li-Poly batteries? This link says they are the best airsoft batteries out there and I tend to believe them. I will now leave this to the experts on this thread...

https://www.evike.com/Merchant2/merc...Battery_lipoly
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  #86  
Old 01-18-2007, 05:08 PM
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That's wayyy too expensive

Especially since most (even modified) airguns will never NEED that kind of amperage. those would be nice in an ultra custom pistol (see photo below)where space is an issue. I'm kind of worried about safety and these cells. Definitely remove them from the gun to recharge (note: ALL LiPolys need a 2-hour charge cycle, regardless of capacity).

Compared to this deal:
http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=896

I'd rather have four batteries and two smart chargers for the same money (incidentally, I have bought these items. My three RC "quick chargers" are now obsolete. -Except for waking up really dead batts that smart chargers cannot "see"). Nice to never worry about overcharging again.


LiPoly's? Not ready for prime time, if you ask me. Nimh's are now reasonably priced, have fantastic capacity, can be recharged without being "dead", and don't carry the liability of high power density. Just the way LiPoly's are packaged tells me they are still a compromise in design.
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  #87  
Old 01-18-2007, 05:16 PM
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Even Better deal at all-battery

same specs, half price:

http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=961

I am ordering one of these batteries asap.

And another pic of my OA93 copy:

Last edited by Killbucket; 03-19-2007 at 02:15 AM.
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  #88  
Old 01-18-2007, 05:51 PM
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The main reason I was wondering about Li-poly is it seems you can get big battery output in a small battery form. I am getting a g36c and thought I could put one of these baby's in there and run all day with a real high rof.
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  #89  
Old 01-18-2007, 06:22 PM
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Then all systems go.

Good call. That is a good reason to use a LiPoly. Just be sure not to overwork it. I have this horrible vision of smoke coming from my $300 plus creation....
Let us know how this works out.
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  #90  
Old 01-18-2007, 07:35 PM
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Killbucket, would that last battery you linked to fit in a g36c? Or is that just the battery parts and it needs to be put together in such a way to fit. I originally posted in this thread to see what everyone's opinions were or li-poly, and if it would fry my gun or not. I don't know much about batteries in relation to airsoft and motors and gearboxes.
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  #91  
Old 01-18-2007, 09:17 PM
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Dimensions: 23mm x 36mm x 83mm

.90 by 1.41 x 3.26 inches.

Mock it up in cardboard or paper and see if it fits. I'm intrigued. I haven't conferred with anybody who has one in a gun yet. Be sure to go to wikipedia.org to get the real lowdown on the technology. I will.

I took one look at an AirSoft-spec battery and said no way am I gonna be happy with bitty batts like that. Didn't even buy one with the first gun. I went home and designed the grenade-launcher housing seen earlier in the post. It holds more battery than you could ever need for AirSoft use.
I've come up with an even lower-tech solution, and I'm sure it's not a new idea: Put the battery on the tactical strap and cable it to the gun. The battery isn't inside my precious baby. Anderson PowerPole connectors allow high current draw, and can be yanked if things get ugly. I know, it "ruins" the realism a bit, but if you ask my wife, very little of this has to do with "Reality" (EXACTLY. that's the whole point! Wait til ya'all see what's going into my minigun project...). I'm planning a Sten gun Project. Where the heck da battery gonna fit in THAT?

http://www.diggerhistory.info/images...s4/uk-sten.jpg

But with big NiCd batts hooked to an airgun, you'll never run them down in a day (this is good). Then you have the choice of run them on the discharger (waste of good electrons), or hope it doesn't go dead in the middle of tomorrow's use (you knew I was going to say "this is bad").

The main reason I took so long to adopt Nimh's is I'm cheap. NiCd's were getting cheaper and cheaper. But then again, I have to run them down all the way before charging.
Great for my RC cars. I always know that they're good and dead after use.
Nickle-Metal Hydride batteries are IDEAL for AirSoft for this one reason alone if for no other. You can keep it topped off like a gastank. And the HIGH amp output is darn near steady until it's empty. That's what you want in an AEG. I consider my battery to be part of the gun's "magazine". Start out topped off, and know that your last shot will be the one you decided it to be.

From what I'm reading about LiPoly's, leaving them dead is a big no-no. I don't know if I have the discipline to keep them happy as long as they should last. The price coming down is helping my opinion a lot, however. Say thank you to the helicopter nuts (...er ..."enthusiasts". I suppose they don't like it any more than we do).

My advice is get the battery and charger from all-battery ( I've gotten many orders from them and am very happy) and save the dollars. Nice web page for the $95 battery, tho. maybe that's what they need the extra money for.
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  #92  
Old 09-06-2007, 06:13 PM
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Hey thanks for the article. i was needing a new batery and i wanted some advice since i killed my last one. how important is it to discharge a batery on a scale of 1-10? thanks.
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  #93  
Old 12-28-2008, 06:00 PM
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So NiCD can overcharge and run flat, but the NiMH quits charging itself when it's full so that is doesn't run flat?
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  #94  
Old 02-06-2009, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaPtAiN_InSaNo View Post
I think the G36c uses a smaller type 4/5c cells or AA sized. You could use the smaller AA sized packs and use like 10 cells for 15 v of power
2 questions...because I have a G36c (TM) as well...
  • Is the main difference between the Sub-C and AA batteries the length of time they will discharge...assuming that they have the same voltage and mAH rating?
  • Wouldn't the higher voltage from 10 AA lead to problems with the gears?
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  #95  
Old 02-06-2009, 06:00 PM
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Yes. The physically larger the cell is, the more peak wattage it will have.
BUT- Smaller cells, plus a heavier load, equals the same watts available to the motor.

Using smaller cells, sometimes the extras are just there to make up for the loss when a strong motor is installed. The actual motor SPEED may not increase at all.

In this case, the extra cells are suggested to increase running speed (=rate of firing).

Anytime you end up with the motor actually running faster, you run the risk of gears getting into position, before the piston can return. Result: stripped teeth.
Cure: stronger spring.
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  #96  
Old 06-24-2010, 03:26 PM
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Good read +1
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  #97  
Old 09-20-2010, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallace View Post
Thanks for the work! Is been a while someone puts up a battery primer, I think it's a nice refresher for everyone, and it does sounds like you know what you are talking about batteries.

Nonetheless, one thing I like to mention is that you do not need to discharge your Ni-CD pack every time. Repeated discharging of the pack actually shortern its service life.

Airsoft is not like RC racing where the performance of your battery pack is measured in how high of a discharge it can sustain. Granted a good set of battery can't hurt, but I've used matched cells in my airsoft guns and there simply isn't enough performance gain to justify the high cost. If price is no object, by all mean spent $80 on a set of zapped, matched cells. But for the majority of users, a good set of 2000mAh pack, when properly maintained, will be more then fine.

Back to the topic, for airsoft purpose, Ni-CD should be periodically deep-discharged to 0.9v per cell (6.3v on a 7-cell, 8.4v pack), maybe twice a year to reduce crystal build-up - not everytime you use it. For the rest of the year, just top it off after each game. As long as you have a good peak-detection charger, it is extremely rare that your Ni-CD pack will develop "memory" effects (the "true" memory effect in Ni-CD battery pack are rarely found outside of geo-stationary satellite batteris).



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Oh btw, the highest capacity Sub-C Ni-MH cell now is 3600mAh, made by Sanyo. But I think the GP3300 still has higher sustainable discharge rate (over 30 amp).
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  #98  
Old 03-12-2011, 01:41 PM
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I don't know much about batteries or electronics in general but could someone tell if this would work for increased rof and gear+piston life. Anyways, if you can fit capacitors to release power during the spring drawback and save it during release would that increase rof?
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