The Official Airsoft Ohio "Stupid"/General Question Thread

[Jonezy]

Originally Posted by Vinvyin

I figured you would be the first one to say something Jonezy. I always love your input.

As far as getting a bore up kit, what would you recommend? It's an A&K Masada, firing around 380 FPS.

I would try to find a HurricanE kit like this:



You'll want the flat-faced cylinder head and piston head for a sorbothane pad as opposed to the mushroom-shaped ones that are so common. Good luck finding one - you may have to piece one together. If memory serves, Modify offered a flat-faced aluminum bore-up piston and cylinder head combo a few years ago that might be worth looking into.

Originally Posted by slowridn73

Not knowing what size cylinder you have I can say that an M60 uses a 590mm barrel with the standard type 0 cylinder and has great range and accuracy (keeping in mind that I only ever ran .2g BB's). I dont think it is a "necessary" upgrade depending on the weight of the ammo being used, that being said I had a bore up kit from systema in an old TM M16vn with a 550mm 6.03 barrel and that thing was a laser beam with great distance. If you can afford it do it, the worst that will come of it is you'll have more air than you need (nice pop with every shot), no negative effects as far as performance. Also the o-rings sucked for them back a few years ago (2003 or so) so make sure to check it for fitment and possibly get a better seating one before buttoning everything back up.

Probably not necessary for a support weapon but for the best accuracy out of something like a DMR, you'll want that extra air behind the BB. You probably got away with it in that M60 because of the light BBs A potential drawback to being overvolumed is that the BB will get destabilized after exiting the barrel from the excess fast-moving air blasting against it. Lots of people will tell you that bore-up kits are a joke, a scam, and a waste of money, but only if you're using them improperly and you're not.

If bore-up piston head o-rings aren't sealing as they should, try AS568A-117 Viton o-rings. I use them in my shop for bore-up kits since all the piston head o-rings seem to suck with these kits. AS568A-116 is for regular cylinders.

[Raziel]

Would this satisfy that kit?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005D1VMW6/...SIN=B005D1VMW6

These parts are the few parts in my gearbox (also A&K Masada) which have not been upgraded, so they're the next things on my to-do list.

[Jonezy]

Originally Posted by Raziel

Would this satisfy that kit?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005D1VMW6/...SIN=B005D1VMW6

These parts are the few parts in my gearbox (also A&K Masada) which have not been upgraded, so they're the next things on my to-do list.

Provided that the cylinder is not ported in any way, yes, that'll work just fine.

[T271]

So recently me and a few people on my team have been considering buying Soviet kits, even if not for games still rather cool. And noticed a few years ago there was some discussion over ww2 or alternate history games. Anyone know if there will be any games like this in 2013 that a Soviet kit would be useful?

[Raziel]

Well at OP Artemis in a week and a half a soviet kit would go well on the Russian Border Guard faction.

[Wrath the Furious]

Soviet kits would also work for the Operation Nomad series starting in March. In terms of "alternate history games," I recommend you look into some of the events put on by Out of the Box Industries. Some events do not allow full military gear because within the alternate history resources and gear is limited, but I think you could find some use for that stuff.

[runner3]

I have a uniform question. A few of us guys are looking to get the navy work uniforms for events. They are a blueish grey digital pattern like Marpat. What team would we be placed on? I am thinking green, but would this be a case where it is simply up to the EO for events.

Runner

[79stang]

Runner, not sure. It would probably be up to the EO like ACU. I would guess green too, but thats just me.

[Mothman]

So recently me and a few people on my team have been considering buying Soviet kits, even if not for games still rather cool. And noticed a few years ago there was some discussion over ww2 or alternate history games. Anyone know if there will be any games like this in 2013 that a Soviet kit would be useful?

Stay Tuned.

[mac50]

Originally Posted by runner3

I have a uniform question. A few of us guys are looking to get the navy work uniforms for events. They are a blueish grey digital pattern like Marpat. What team would we be placed on? I am thinking green, but would this be a case where it is simply up to the EO for events.

Runner

AFAIK, NWU's have not been released to the civillian market, nor has a public version been produced. BTW NWU's also come in green and tan ( type 2 and 3 respectively) Unless you can get either Resevists or Active Duty to buy some for you, you're out of luck

[Loki]

Originally Posted by mac50

AFAIK, NWU's have not been released to the civillian market, nor has a public version been produced. BTW NWU's also come in green and tan ( type 2 and 3 respectively) Unless you can get either Resevists or Active Duty to buy some for you, you're out of luck

If you google "digital urban" you'll find quite a bit of stuff that's remarkably similar to the NWU. The primary difference is the Urban Digital pattern is more black than blue, but an untrained observer wont be able to tell the difference from a distance.

[Vinvyin]

And here we go again. Anyone help me to identify this barrel?




I think this is it but I can't really tell for sure.
http://www.evike.com/product_info.ph...ducts_id=27084

[Jonezy]

That looks like a Bravo/Lonex barrel. It could also be a PDI Raven barrel but it should be marked as such if it were.

[JMDECC]

I have a question which I haven't really been able to find a solid answer on. I purchased a Classic Army M15A4 about a month and a half ago so I could start playing airsoft. Before going ahead and buying it I checked around on a few websites to read up on it, and with each the FPS was listed anywhere from 350 to 390 FPS with .2g's. That was cool with me.

However....when I went to my first game at Fallen Warriors a month back, I went to chrono, and the gun shot at about 430 FPS (+/- 3 or 4) each shot I took. Since I was shooting that hot I was unable to participate in any fighting in the villages, and could only shoot semi-auto throughout the day. I didn't mind shooting semi, but not being able to fight in the villages was sort of a bummer. For your typical rifle 430 seems really excessive to me anyways.

That makes me wonder, why was the FPS of the gun so much higher than advertised on each of the websites I looked at? Does cold weather affect AEG's FPS wise some way? Or is the FPS typically high on new guns until they get broken in? I'm just stumped really and I'm trying to decide how to proceed. If the gun is indeed sitting around 430 FPS, should I try and downgrade the spring? Would a tighter barrel decrease FPS in any way?

Any help would be appreciated.

[Vinvyin]

Originally Posted by Jonezy

That looks like a Bravo/Lonex barrel. It could also be a PDI Raven barrel but it should be marked as such if it were.

Thanks man. No markings on any of it.

Someone else said it may be a KM Head barrel. If it is, I may have just bought a $60+ barrel for $20.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_inf...roducts_id=161

[Bushmaster16]

JMDECC Now, I'm no expert on things like this, but to give you an answer about downgrading the spring, I'd say do that. A tighter bore barrel will actually increase FPS, in most cases. The increase is very little though.

First, before you downgrade the spring, you will need to find out what your stock spring tension is, then determine what the weaker spring's tension will need to be.

As for the cold effecting the FPS, I have no idea. With the retail FPS advertisements, It's iffy. I hope this helped, and that someone else can back this info up. I say this because I haven't made any posts like this. Good Luck!

[Texx]

Originally Posted by Vinvyin

And here we go again. Anyone help me to identify this barrel?




I think this is it but I can't really tell for sure.
http://www.evike.com/product_info.ph...ducts_id=27084

I have a barrel similar to that, did it come in a triangular tube?

[Vinvyin]

Originally Posted by Texx

I have a barrel similar to that, did it come in a triangular tube?

I bought it used. The guy just pulled it out of his AUG that he got in a trade.

The only other barrel I saw that looked like this are Teflon coated barrels.

[JMDECC]

Originally Posted by Bushmaster16

JMDECC Now, I'm no expert on things like this, but to give you an answer about downgrading the spring, I'd say do that. A tighter bore barrel will actually increase FPS, in most cases. The increase is very little though.

First, before you downgrade the spring, you will need to find out what your stock spring tension is, then determine what the weaker spring's tension will need to be.

As for the cold effecting the FPS, I have no idea. With the retail FPS advertisements, It's iffy. I hope this helped, and that someone else can back this info up. I say this because I haven't made any posts like this. Good Luck!

Thanks man. From what I researched before posting it seemed like downgrading the spring was the most common choice when it came to changing FPS. I guess my new question now is: how do I go about determining what the springs current tension is? Googling has not yielded any helpful results as of yet.

[Spectre]

Originally Posted by JMDECC

Thanks man. From what I researched before posting it seemed like downgrading the spring was the most common choice when it came to changing FPS. I guess my new question now is: how do I go about determining what the springs current tension is? Googling has not yielded any helpful results as of yet.

Scientifically...A force gauge. But most smith's usually can make a rough guess from just messing with it. On top of that, its hard to say what spring rating by which manufacturer will put you in the desired FPS range. With guns that have good to excellent compression I normally direct people towards an SHS or equivalent "M110" spring since they typically are under 400FPS in *MOST* guns. I say most because in some select AEGs (like CYMA AK's for instance) an SHS M110 can give you FPS over 400. Additionally, there is a difference between an SHS M110, a Madbull M110, a Hurricane M110, a Systema M110, Guarder, etc etc. Doing some reading might better educate you on what you want to go with. I typically just use SHS however for springs.

[Bushmaster16]

Okay, I have a few newbish questions that I want to ask. No I am not new to airsoft, just new to the next level of airsoft; working with internals, lipo's, and more. My questions:
1. What is the main purpose of a MOSFET?
2. What is the main difference between charging my NiMH battery at 1.0 amp rather than 3.0? Pretty much: what is amperage and what does it do?

Thank you for reading-Walrus

[Loki]

Originally Posted by Bushmaster16

Okay, I have a few newbish questions that I want to ask. No I am not new to airsoft, just new to the next level of airsoft; working with internals, lipo's, and more. My questions:
1. What is the main purpose of a MOSFET?
2. What is the main difference between charging my NiMH battery at 1.0 amp rather than 3.0? Pretty much: what is amperage and what does it do?

Thank you for reading-Walrus

Traditional AEGs use simple contact switches to complete the circuit and cause the motor to turn, thereby turning the gears and compressing the piston on the spring. The problem with the contact switches is that they arc minute amounts every time the gun fired, and the switch slowly gets destroyed. Mosfets function on a different, more productive principle. They can measure how much voltage or amperage is allowed to the motor, which also potentially enables your AEG to have a burst function.

As for the 1A vs. 3A question: mAH in an airsoft battery (or any battery, really) measures the amount of charge that particular battery can hold. A 1700mah battery holds half as much as a 3400mah battery. 1amp is 1000mah. Charging at a higher amperage charges the batteries quicker, but also decreases the life of the battery. The old rule was that you were never supposed to charge a NiCad/NiMah battery at more than double it's mah capacity. Therefore you wouldn't charge a 1700mah (1.7ah) battery at greater than 3.4a. Charging batteries too quickly can cause the individual cells in the pack to rupture, and would destroy the pack.

A lot of the newer batteries are LiPo and Li-Ion, and overcharging or undercharging them can have extremely bad consequences.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CORysPF3rmk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixIOEPnsgbI

This one is Li-Ion:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5f0VCoFuFM

[Loki]

Originally Posted by Vinvyin

And here we go again. Anyone help me to identify this barrel?




I think this is it but I can't really tell for sure.
http://www.evike.com/product_info.ph...ducts_id=27084

I'm pretty sure this barrel is by a company called "KN". They were literally the first company that made tightbores (at least as far as Americans are concerned). I've not seen the barrel bands cut into the barrels on anything since a KN barrel I once owned.

[Bushmaster16]

Originally Posted by Loki

Traditional AEGs use simple contact switches to complete the circuit and cause the motor to turn, thereby turning the gears and compressing the piston on the spring. The problem with the contact switches is that they arc minute amounts every time the gun fired, and the switch slowly gets destroyed. Mosfets function on a different, more productive principle. They can measure how much voltage or amperage is allowed to the motor, which also potentially enables your AEG to have a burst function.

As for the 1A vs. 3A question: mAH in an airsoft battery (or any battery, really) measures the amount of charge that particular battery can hold. A 1700mah battery holds half as much as a 3400mah battery. 1amp is 1000mah. Charging at a higher amperage charges the batteries quicker, but also decreases the life of the battery. The old rule was that you were never supposed to charge a NiCad/NiMah battery at more than double it's mah capacity. Therefore you wouldn't charge a 1700mah (1.7ah) battery at greater than 3.4a. Charging batteries too quickly can cause the individual cells in the pack to rupture, and would destroy the pack.

A lot of the newer batteries are LiPo and Li-Ion, and overcharging or undercharging them can have extremely bad consequences.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CORysPF3rmk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixIOEPnsgbI

This one is Li-Ion:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5f0VCoFuFM

Thanks very much, this really helped.

[Styles]

Quick question for you guys, just to see what you guys think. I'm starting a team with some friends, we plan on tending a decent amount of events but overall a very "noob" team at the moment.

I'm deciding between two names. LMV: La Morte Viene (Death is Coming) or BOMB (Band of Maniacal Brothers). Both are names I've used in online games and I'm still thinking about which one to use. Basically if you guys had to use one of those two which would you pick?