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Old 07-20-2006, 07:58 PM
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UTG M324 Tightbore & Teflon Mod---instructions and review! (TONS OF PICS)

(Taken from Cataphract_'s post on Airsoft Retreat. IN NO WAY AM I CLAIMING THIS IS MINE.)

So without further ado:

UTG M324 "MASTER SNIPER" DB CUSTOM AIRSOFT 6.01MM TIGHTBORE BARREL

The tightbore barrel for the M324 has been talked and talked about endlessly, but I've yet to see a topic anywhere in which someone has actually installed and tested one.

It's time for that to change.



About a month ago, I ordered one of the tightbores for the M324 from DB Custom Airsoft, located in Yakima, Washington. The barrel itself cost $50, with a $10 charge added to cover shipping, bringing the total to $60. I spent the money happily to bring YOU the results.

I tried to get a good shot down the barrel so you all could see how gorgeously smooth it is inside. You'll have to take my word for it.

INSTALLATION

First, let's start with installation. I took over sixty pictures of the entire process, from start to finish to Poor Man's Chrono, so that even the most inexperienced of airsofters could benefit from this guide. (And let's face it...if you bought the M324...you're probably very inexperienced...not that there's anything wrong with that.)

Here's what I used for the installation process. From left to right:

teflon tape, $0.89 at Wal-Mart
lube, you should already have some of this
a Phillips screwdriver, ditto
and a rifle cleaning kit, about 7 bucks at Wal-Mart.

I used the lube and cleaning kit to clean the barrel out before installation, and the teflon tape to tape off the hop-up and cylinder. More on that later.



First, let's remove this screw. Use the larger allen wrench provided with your M324.



The screw removed.



Grab the outer barrel and pull it out.



You have now separated the barrel assembly from the cylinder assembly; it should look like this.



Remove these screws.





Remove this metal plate.


Remove this small screw and the attached hop-up control.



Remember to keep all the stuff separate (and don't lose any of it!)



Slide the inner barrel and hop-up out of the outer barrel.



Voila, the inner barrel/hop-up.



Remove these two screws.





Now remove these two screws on the top of the hop-up.



The hop-up will now come apart. Don't be afraid if some pieces jump out, just keep track of them all. Note that I have teflon taped my hop-up...I removed it immediately after this picture was taken so I could apply a fresh taping.



Remove the inner barrel from the hop-up and pull off the black hop-up bucking.



Side-by-side comparison of the old (aluminum) barrel and the new (brass) tightbore.



I have now wrapped the NOTCHED end of the barrel with approx. two wraps of teflon tape.



Put the hop-up bucking back on.



Wrap the WHOLE BUCKING with teflon tape.



See the raised notch in the bucking? It fits right into that thin rectangular hole in the hop-up.



The inner barrel replaced, and all the inner pieces of the hop-up put back in.



Start to put the hop-up back together.



Put these screws back in. Make sure you've got a good tight seal.



Now put these two screws back in place.



Slide the hop-up and inner barrel back into the outer barrel.



Line up the hop-up as shown.



Replace the hop-up control lever and screw it in.



Replace the cover plate and screw that in.



If you like, wrap some teflon tape twice around the end of the cylinder to promote a better seal.



Slide the outer barrel back into the cylinder assembly.



Make sure the holes line up.



Put the allen wrench screw back in place.



TESTING



POWER

Alright, now the fun part. Here's my Poor Man's Chrono testing pics (with before and after.)

Poor man's chrono info courtesy of RedWolf Airsoft (http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...il?bulletID=34)

ONE SIDE
(BB remains in can after penetrating one side) 290 to 310 fps

BOTH SIDES
(BB makes it straight through and exits on the other side) 350 to 370fps

BOTTOM (CENTRAL) 430 to 450fps

BOTTOM (EDGE) 450 to 470fps

TOP (EDGE) 480 to 510fps

TOP (CENTRAL) 520 to 540fps


Stock M324. As you can see, it went through one side---but stopped there. It left a small dent in the other side (right where it says "AND/OR" on the back). 290 to 310 fps.



M324 with teflon tape (but NO tightbore). The BB goes through both sides. 350 to 370fps.





M324 with tightbore and teflon tape. The BB leaves a rather monstrous hole in the front and goes easily through the back. >370fps.







Not quite strong enough to break through the top. <480fps.



...but easily blasts through the bottom. >=450fps.



So, as you can see, my M324 now has an estimated muzzle velocity of 450-480 feet per second.

ACCURACY

shots, 100ft, teflon mod, no tightbore.



shots, 100ft, teflon mod, tightbore.

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Last edited by vbtb110; 07-21-2006 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 07-21-2006, 02:26 PM
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Is there a way we can get this Stickied?
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Old 07-21-2006, 02:44 PM
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Is there a reason that you had to put all of the links and info in separate posts? If you could constrict this all to one large post, I will sticky it.
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Old 07-21-2006, 02:54 PM
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Well, when I was putting in the Pictures, I thought they would come out as actual pictures, not links. But seeing as how they didnt, I will change them.

EDIT: Modification made.
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Old 07-21-2006, 03:05 PM
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Sticky status granted.
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Old 08-01-2006, 02:00 PM
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Hey vbtb110, thanks for spreading the gospel The more people we can get to know about this, the more seriously the M324 will be taken. Hopefully, pretty soon, people will stop calling it a joke of a rifle altogether.

Oh, and if anyone here would like to look at the original topic, which has now grown to more than six pages long, please click here:

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums...?topic=13771.0

The topic has lots more info than just that first post; testimonials, Q&A sessions, and even a complete breakdown of the hop-up unit can be found there...and much more!

Again, thanks for your help vbtb110
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Old 08-19-2006, 03:35 AM
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kinda old but just wanted to say that i doubt that just a new barrel can make the fps jump from 300 to 450 that is a 50% increase in power! Also if anybody happened to read the redwolf poor man's chrono it stated you should use coke cans as they are more consistent and thicker than pepsi and others, here is an exact quote from redwolf

Quote:
Coke and Sprite cans work the best as beer cans and other brands sometimes have varying thickness which can throw off your estimates completely
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Old 08-19-2006, 08:58 AM
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And if you also didnt notice, there were mods to the cylinder as well.
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Old 08-20-2006, 12:52 AM
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ok and tape and i dont think even with the tape and barrel combined it can be that much because i bought a PDI Laser-Cut High Precision Cylinder with tolerances of 4/1000 and it didn't make the fps jump that much but the stronger spring in the cylinder did and i can guarntee that laser cut cylinder is making a better seal than some tape
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Old 08-20-2006, 09:05 AM
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Its not "just tape", the tape closes up a gap in the cylinder where it wasnt making a good seal, preventing higher FPS, but with this mod it ups the FPS. And I am almost 100% sure you couldnt have put a new cylinder in your gun because currently there is not a replacement cylinder made that will fit this gun. Do not bash this idea as you have not tried it, and the results gained here do not lie. Many people have done this mod to their guns, and have gotten the same results. So until you have done this on your gun, I suggest that you do not bash this project.
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Old 08-20-2006, 11:48 AM
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Cory I have performed said mod and let me explain to you what it does to obtain such high fps from a stock cylinder/spring.

The m324 before you perform the mod shoots a ok 300-320FPS. Its barrel is 6.14 mm wide so the barrel is pretty big compared to a 6.01mm tightbore barrel. So when you install a tightbore on the gun the fps goes up from 5-20fps, that said the difference between those barrels in size is pretty small about maybe 0.06mm at most(This is from lets say a stock m15a4 by CA barrel(6.08mm) to a 6.02mm Prometheus barrel). A utg stock barrel (6.14 mm) to a 6.01mm deescustoms tightbore is a difference of 0.11 mm. No that may not seem like a lot but it is close to twice the amount of difference you get from a m15a4 stock barrel to a 6.02 barrel. This should give you close to double the amount of FPS increase which means possibly 10-40fps difference from stock performance.

Enough with the barrel talk lets talk about the teflon mod. Ok so the m324 has really bad stock compression measning that a lot of pressureized air escapes when you pull the trigger. This air doesn't hit the bb causing a major loss in power. The tape seals up where the air escapes creating better compression meaning higher fps. Up to about a 80fps increase. If you want more info pm for more details.

Cheers,
Sniper

P.S. You don't do anything to the cylinder the tape is placed in the hop chamber.
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Old 08-20-2006, 12:26 PM
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Amazing guide.

I'm impressed!
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Old 08-20-2006, 12:47 PM
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Cataphract_40, very nice guide. I agree with Grease man, I'm impressed as well. vbtb110, THANK YOU for posting this. I'll have to refer a couple of people to this guide.

Both of you are life savers!
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Old 08-21-2006, 07:42 PM
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sorry forgot to mention that i have a APS2 and the new cylinder didn't up the fps that much and like i said the cylinders are cut very precisely so I am pretty sure that they are making a better seal than the taped M234 yet my fps didn't increase very much if at all from the new cylinder but the new spring in it did increase the fps and yes I understand the concept behind it and how it works i just dont believe it lol
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Old 08-24-2006, 06:28 AM
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Well, I am new to airsoft but just bought a UTG M324 and modified it with the teflon only.
Did not measure before the mod but results are impressive after the mod (measurement made with several cans of "Coke light", which is the French version of the Diet Coke. Hope this is a good measurement!)
Using .2g bullets here are the results:
At 2 inches or less, the bullet goes through the bottom on the edge (should be 450 fps)
At 2 feet the bullet goes through both sides (should be 350 fps)
At 10 feet the bullet goes through one side (should be 290 fps)

I have somme issues with grouping (3 to 4 inches at 45 feet) and not sure I had a good process to adjust hop-up and scope.

Is there a FAQ somewhere for rigging a gun from scratch?
What can be done to improve grouping?

Thanks,
JL
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:42 PM
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To improve on groupings, just about the only thing you can do is get a tightbore barrel, which in the top of the "mod manual" it states that DB customs makes a custom 6.01 tightbore for the gun. Hopup will level out your shots, but won't do much more then that. I would say get the DB barrel. Also, if that truely is the fps you are getting, I would start using some heavier bb's, like .25 or even .29/.3's.
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Old 08-24-2006, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BlackHawk97
To improve on groupings, just about the only thing you can do is get a tightbore barrel, which in the top of the "mod manual" it states that DB customs makes a custom 6.01 tightbore for the gun. Hopup will level out your shots, but won't do much more then that. I would say get the DB barrel. Also, if that truely is the fps you are getting, I would start using some heavier bb's, like .25 or even .29/.3's.
Thanks for the answers.
Concerning the fps, that is what I got with the cans available here, using the interpretation rules established by redwolf poor's man chronograph. I will use different cans to se if it is consistent.
I wil start using heavier BB while I will be waiting to get the thight bore (no living in the US).
I have been struggling with my hop-up and scope adjustment. Is there an FAQ somewhere I could use for a step by step rigging process?

Thanks,
JL
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Old 08-24-2006, 06:33 PM
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Umm, I would try using the search button, or checking arnies airsoft for the scope thing. But yeah, the heavier bb's will help with keeping your shots nice and strait, less effected by wind and stuff.
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:27 PM
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DB Custom barrels

Actually, I am the guy who came up with the idea for the barrels, so here is a little added info on them.
The highest recorded increase in the UTG M324 barrel has been a customer firing 480fps with 0.20g BBs, and the teflon mod has shown an average of 50fps on the M324 and the DE M50 (there are probably about 100 of these in our area alone) without the tight bore.
So, figuring the teflon mod at 50fps, and the gun firing stock at 320fps, you still have a 110fps improvment, where the barrel is the common difference between the two.

I personally have a HFC USR-11 that is upgraded with a Laylax SP150 spring and one of our tight bore barrels, but also having done a modified teflon wrap to it. The average velocity I acheive with the PHX 0.28g BBs I prefer to use is 438fps, and considering my average engagement distance is 150', the BBs are hitting point of aim at that range cosistantly.

In a Tanaka M40A1 with one of our barrels added, the muzzle velocity increase was only 50-60fps, but when you are talking about firing a 0.36g BB at 527fps stock and then 585fps after installing the barrel, that can be a very large difference. With recorded groups of 6" at 100 yards, that is a marked improvement over stock, and all while still using the original green gas system with no modifications.

In a stock Classic Army M15A4 carbine (M4), the original muzzle velocity was 320fps, but after installing the new barrel it was chronoed at 345fps, and scoring 2-3" groups at 25 yards, even getting 2-4" groups on semi auto at 50 yards.

In a comparison test, one of our customers has actually converted to the 6.01mm barrel after previously having a Prometheus barrel in his M4. After his initial confusion over the 500 round break in we recommend, he found that he was shooting 10fps faster, 30-40' further and his shot groupings were 3/4 of what they had been before.

With stories like these coming from our customers, I can only hope this means we are actually making it possible to get the performance many people want without having to put in the damaging internal upgrades that often are needed to get those results, and for the more experience player/techs, it means they can push the envelope even further with their creations.

Our next area of exploration is going to be tight bore barrels for 8mm airsoft guns, which are already being used in the new P3 M2 .50 cal machine gun, http://www.xcalibertactical.com/products/m2.html

Hope this helps.
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Last edited by NWATT-Gewehr; 10-12-2006 at 11:30 PM.
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Old 11-04-2006, 04:55 PM
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Nice guide! I'm planning on doing the tape mod on my G-spec. Which leads me to another thing... It appears from the pictures that the UTG M324 inner barrel uses the same design as the VSR-10 barrel. Can I put a DB M324 barrel in my G-spec?
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Old 11-04-2006, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Destroyer
Can I put a DB M324 barrel in my G-spec?
I wouldn't take bets on it, and you wouldn't probably want to. Unless I was mislead, the G-specs come with tightbores pre-installed.
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Old 11-04-2006, 05:30 PM
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It comes with a 6.05mm x 303mm. Not tight or long enough for me. I'm going to put either a LayLax 6.03mm x 430mm or a DB 6.01mm M324 (430mm I think) if it will fit the chamber.
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Old 11-04-2006, 05:41 PM
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keep safe, stick with the laylax.
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:18 AM
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Thanks, but I didn't want opinions. I question is for someone that knows if the UTG barrel and VSR-10 barrel are interchangeable.
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Old 11-05-2006, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted in Airsoft Atlanta's UTG m324 Review
Here you see the hop up adjustment slider. This is very similar to a Marui VSR10 rifle. Our technician told me that the hop up chamber is very close in design to the VSR10. We haven't verified that they are compatible, but it may be possible to interchange some of the parts.
That's all I found. Like I said, I wouldn't bet on it.
http://airsoftatlanta.blogspot.com/2...per-rifle.html
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