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-   -   Help with Two DBoys Scar-Ls (http://www.airsoftohio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49859)

rootbeerking202 11-02-2013 05:13 PM

Help with Two DBoys Scar-Ls
 
I just picked up another Dboys scar-L only to find out that it has the same issue as my previous one.

I'm fixing both, I got one for $100 and the other for free, so I don't want to give up on these guys.

I plug in a battery, and nothing happens. I'm guessing it's electrical, because the nozzle, gears, and piston are all fine.

Any idea what's wrong?
Feel free to ask more productive questions about troubleshooting.

Thanks,
Root

Rygar 11-02-2013 05:18 PM

Did you check the fuse, if it has one? If it does, then I swap in a new one regardless. They are sometimes hard to tell if they have been blown. If there isn't a fuse, then you might have a short in the wire, or the motor could be dead. Check the motor connectors. If they are bent at a 90 degree to hook to the motor, they sometimes break at the bend, but the break is hidden by the shrink wrap around it. Those are a couple things that are easy to check.

Texx 11-03-2013 12:44 AM

Try checking with another battery, too, just to be thorough.

rootbeerking202 11-03-2013 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rygar (Post 430013)
Did you check the fuse, if it has one? If it does, then I swap in a new one regardless. They are sometimes hard to tell if they have been blown. If there isn't a fuse, then you might have a short in the wire, or the motor could be dead. Check the motor connectors. If they are bent at a 90 degree to hook to the motor, they sometimes break at the bend, but the break is hidden by the shrink wrap around it. Those are a couple things that are easy to check.

The previous owner on the one that I paid for claimed that the only reason that it wasn't working was the fuse. Popped the one that I got for free, which I assume is identical as they are both stock, and there was no fuse box in sight. I'm not sure where else the fuse would go.
There could be a short in the wire, I accidentally closed one of the gearboxes on a wire, but it didn't seem to affect the actual wire, just the shell around it.
The motor could be the issue, but they don't seem to be at a 90 degree angle. I think I'll cut away the shrink wrap and see if there is a breakage.
As far as the motor being dead; it is possible, but I find it unlikely that both motors are dead by coincidence; I don't know how long it takes motors to break, however.

I'll check the motor connectors and the motors could be dead.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texx (Post 430024)
Try checking with another battery, too, just to be thorough.

I checked both with a 9.6v battery and an 8.4 battery. To verify that the batteries weren't dead, I tested them in my MP5 and they both worked fine.

Thanks for the responses, folks! :)

Spectre 11-03-2013 12:55 PM

Got a multimeter? Switch it to "continuity" (the ohm-meter setting with the little sound icon) and start testing lengths of the wiring to see if you can pinpoint a break. A good number of times you can narrow down the problem without even having to break into the gearbox.

rootbeerking202 11-03-2013 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spectre (Post 430032)
Got a multimeter? Switch it to "continuity" (the ohm-meter setting with the little sound icon) and start testing lengths of the wiring to see if you can pinpoint a break. A good number of times you can narrow down the problem without even having to break into the gearbox.

I don't believe I do, unfortunately. I'll look around for one. If I'm not mistaken, the multimeter would pick up where the electric flow stops in the wire, therefore pinpointing where, if anywhere, if there is an wiring problem?

It could also be the motor or the motor connectors. How do I diagnose that?

Spectre 11-03-2013 01:56 PM

Just to be clear here, a "short" or short-circuit refers to when the circuit has an unwanted closed loop allowing current flow. If you had a short, the gun would either fire uncontrollably and/or the battery would get hot quickly after plugging it in.

Using continuity would tell you if current has the ability to flow between two points, be it wire, the gearbox shell, gun casing, etc. You can use the meter to test between the black motor connector and black prong on your battery connect (gun side) to see if there is a break somewhere along the wire. You can also do this for the red wire by pulling the trigger and seeing if current can flow. If you find a length were current doesn't flow, you can break that section down further to find the break. The meter is your diagnostic tool, it only tells you if your test is a pass or fail. From there you need to be methodical in hunting down the issue.

If its electrical for that matter.

rootbeerking202 11-03-2013 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spectre (Post 430035)
Just to be clear here, a "short" or short-circuit refers to when the circuit has an unwanted closed loop allowing current flow. If you had a short, the gun would either fire uncontrollably and/or the battery would get hot quickly after plugging it in.

Using continuity would tell you if current has the ability to flow between two points, be it wire, the gearbox shell, gun casing, etc. You can use the meter to test between the black motor connector and black prong on your battery connect (gun side) to see if there is a break somewhere along the wire. You can also do this for the red wire by pulling the trigger and seeing if current can flow. If you find a length were current doesn't flow, you can break that section down further to find the break. The meter is your diagnostic tool, it only tells you if your test is a pass or fail. From there you need to be methodical in hunting down the issue.

If its electrical for that matter.

My bad, corrected.

So in other words, I test the black part (motor connector and wire) with the battery plugged in, etc. If the black part has no electrical flow, I go up the wire to see where it starts?
Should I only complete the circuit by pulling the trigger when testing the red, or red and black?

Genius 11-03-2013 02:28 PM

If you don't have a multimeter, I'd suggest stopping by Harbor freight and picking one up, they're fairly cheap. $5 IIRC

rootbeerking202 11-03-2013 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Genius (Post 430037)
If you don't have a multimeter, I'd suggest stopping by Harbor freight and picking one up, they're fairly cheap. $5 IIRC

Where is Harbor Freight? I'll look it up. Thanks a lot, Genius. ;)

EDIT: I think I'll get one, unless my friend has one. Thanks!

rootbeerking202 11-03-2013 04:47 PM

UPDATE

I put my P90 motor in, and one cycled fine, but then for some reason it stopped- might be because the P90 motor didn't exactly fit. The spring seemed a lot looser in the E1 P90 motor then the other two.

I haven't had a chance to try the other one, but I'm hoping it's the same problem.

I'm guessing the first problem was the motor, but why did it stop working?
I'm gonna try to borrow a friend's motor to see if that fixes it.

Jables 11-13-2013 04:44 PM

Take the motor out of the gearbox and see if it runs. If it does, I think you may have a shimming issue.

If it doesn't, see if both of your motors still have their magnetivity. If they are still magnetic, they are not broken (I'm pretty sure that's how that works).

rootbeerking202 01-15-2014 11:34 PM

Ancient update:

Though I might as well mention that the first is almost certainly a shimming issue, as the gears are super sticky and hardly move.

I believe the second has a wiring issue.

I also have an E1 M4 that on trying to discover. Not sure what's wrong, I'm going to guess motor or wiring because it suffered from extreme weather issues. It was left in the woods for about a month. It has mud and probably is wet. I checked out the internals and they look nice. I got it for free from a friend. I should be able to get it up and working.


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